After several recent meals here I realized that Milonga had become a major culinary player in White Plains. But let’s step back a bit. It was just over a year ago that early grapevine about Milonga’s opening had the public palate buzzing. It was housed in a restaurant site in north White Plains that had not seen solid success since Carl Magnotta’s original Sweetwaters. This place was to be different.

Part of the crew from upscale Tango Grill on the other side of town had bolted and joined ranks here. First and foremost was Chef Angelo Magno, a 20-year veteran of kitchens in and around Westchester who had quietly established a big culinary talent. Some may remember his early work as sous chef alongside Argentinian-bred Chef Paolo Penichio. Through the years Chef Magno’s kitchen prowess extended back not only to his native Mexico, but matured lavishly into the Italian and Argentinian culinary realms. He is partnering with Miryam Martinez. She is a warm, vivacious host who is totally immersed in the day-to-day success of her establishment and it shows right down to the dedicated staff on the floor.

Milonga is named after a dance that was a precursor of the tango. And my palate has danced through a good part of Milonga’s compelling wine and tapas menu and their extraordinary fusion of main courses and desserts. I must shout out to all lovers of fine food that it is a must visit! It is Argentina meets the Mediterranean with a lush wallop of flavor!

Tasty tapas, delectable small plates, are served daily in the hip bar/lounge (20 choices ranging from $4. to $10.). Chef Magno creates a colorful palette of taste sensations with such teasers as: house made Empanadas, stuffed with caramelized beef and onions with chimichurri sauce; Gambas con Coco, shrimp encrusted with coconut flakes served with Malibu sauce; Calamares Fritos, golden fried calamari served with marinara sauce; even a house burger, Mini Hamburgusa, hamburger with cheddar, Applewood smoked bacon, tomato and avocado on brioche bread. Select one of the wonderful house wines by the glass to make your foray complete.

Beautifully plated appetizers on the regular menu include: Roasted Duck Wraps, oven roasted duck rolled in flour tortilla with avocado, onions, peppers and mozzarella; Pulpo a la Brasa, Mediterranean style tender octopus in olive oil, garlic sauce with Gaeta olives and fresh tomatoes; a lovely Jumbo Lump Crab Cake served with honey mustard sauce (one of the biggest I’ve seen); and Sliced Spanish Chorizo and Sundried Figs sautéed with port wine sauce.

Pastas are hearty: Rigatoni Milonga melds crumbled sausage, julienne peppers, asparagus, mascarpone, smoked mozzarella, with a touch of tomato sauce; a fine briny version of Linguine Vongole, baby clams, parsley, garlic, extra virgin olive oil; and Sacchetti Portobello, homemade stuffed purses filled with cheese, pignoli nuts, Portobello mushroom, shrimp, bathed in a brandy cream sauce.

Signature main courses include: Chicken Scarpariello served on the bone with thin sausage sautéed with plenty of garlic and rosemary in a white wine sauce; Vitello Martini, pounded veal scaloppini encrusted in parmesan cheese sautéed in lemon white wine sauce; good marinated Grilled Jumbo Shrimp with fresh herbs served over Spanish saffron rice; and Veal Cardenale, scaloppini of veal topped with prosciutto, eggplant, roasted peppers, topped with melted mozzarella. The dramatic house Paella is a sight to be seen: Spanish saffron yellow rice loaded with jumbo shrimp, scallops, clams, lobster, mussels, thin grilled sausage and chicken. Flavors explode!

Meat lovers will enjoy such hefty cuts as: Vacio alla Milonga, bottom cut filet mignon grilled, topped with onions and Spanish chorizo; Skirt Steak, classic Argentinean churrasco, served with sautéed onions and peppers; a fine tender Rack of Lamb, New Zealand lamb in port wine, served with grilled asparagus; New York Strip Steak, topped with Portobello mushroom and balsamic glaze; and Pork Filet Mignon, grilled and topped with thin sliced sausage, peppers, onions and melted mozzarella cheese. A carnivore favorite is the Parillada, a big combo platter of Angus strip, skirt, flat iron, and thin sausage served with yucca potatoes and chimichurri sauce.

 

For dessert the fresh made Dolce de Leche Crepes finished tableside are a treat.

Special Hint: There is outdoor seating and happy hours in the bar lounge from 4 p.m. to 7 p.m. Sunday through Thursday. There is outdoor seating weather permitting and a great spot for networking!

Milonga Restaurant is located at 577 North Broadway; Open 7 days for lunch and dinner; Lunch served Monday-Friday, 11 a.m to 3 p.m. Main courses at lunch: $15. to $18. Dinner served Monday-Thursday 3 p.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday to 11 p.m.; Sunday, 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Appetizers and salads: $8. to $14. Main courses at dinner: $16. to $30. Tapas menu: $4. to $10. Happy hours: Sunday thru Thursdays, 4 p.m. to 7 p.m. Bar/lounge. Seasonal outdoor seating. Major credit cards. Take out. Private parties and banquets. Proper casual dress. Free parking; valet parking evenings. Reservations suggested. Phone: 358-1444. www.milongarestaurant.com

 

MODERNE BARN PREMIERS IN ARMONK!

Over the years the Livanos family has given diners throughout the metropolitan area a great deal to chew on: Oceana, Abboccato and Molyvos in New York City; Burger Deluxe in Wayne, N.J.; the former Café Meze in Hartsdale; City Limits in Westchester and Connecticut; and now the Moderne Barn in Armonk. While they recently moved Oceana into larger quarters in Manhattan, the Moderne Barn may be their most dramatic opening to date. Sweeping walnut barrel vaulted ceilings, multi-level dining rooms, long spirited bar with wine cabinets and catwalk above, huge picture windows, Robert Dutesco horse prints (this is horse country after all), and seating capacity of about 200.

Wisely, Executive Chef Ethan Kostbar, formerly of The Dressing Room in Westport, chose to start with a limited menu given the size of this operation. And we liked it! It was packed on a recent weekday evening as we enjoyed such eclectic starting specialties as: Matzo Ball Soup (take it from me, it was good!); Baby Arugula Salad with peaches, Greek feta cheese, sunflower seeds, lavender vinaigrette; individual sized White Anchovy Flat Bread, with garlic, spinach, baby artichoke, oregano, taleggio cheese; and Grilled Octopus with lima beans, pancetta, lemon-oregano dressing. The lemon torte for dessert was tasty too. Prices on the opening menu range from $7. to $31. At this writing the restaurant was open for dinner only 7 nights. There are lunch plans down the line.

Moderne Barn, 430 Bedford Road, Armonk 730-0001. www.modernebarn.com

 

IN THE GRAPEVINE…

The Skeadas family has sold long-running Mighty Joe Young’s in White Plains. Sources say it was bought by a group that owns Benjamin’s Steakhouse in Manhattan. A new restaurant is currently under construction. The site of the short-lived Hito Asian Bistro and Finn McCool’s on South Broadway, across from The Westchester, is being transformed into the Westchester Burger Company, a work in progress.

 

(Morris Gut is a restaurant consultant and former restaurant trade magazine editor. He has been tracking and writing about the food and dining scene in greater Westchester for over 25 years. He may be reached at: 914-235-6591. E-mail: gutreactions@optonline.net

Simson Kalathara, pioneer-proprietor of Bengal Tiger Indian Restaurant on E. Post Road, White Plains will be honored by the Westchester/Rockland Chapter of the New York State Restaurant Association with a Lifetime Achievement Award at the trade group’s 32nd annual Presidential Ball, to be held on Monday at Lake Isle Caterers in Eastchester. It’s an appropriate award, but why my “pioneer” designation? Over the years I have known Simson, he has never stayed with the pack. After leaving the Indian Foreign Service, he was the first to bring Indian cuisine to Westchester over 30 years ago. His did not stick to formula menus but kept his tour of India’s rich culinary heritage alive by offering a dynamic selection of regional specialties, seasoning them with bits of Indian history and folklore along the way. Just entering his dining room is like taking a trip to a museum: it is festooned with original photos, art and prints of his native land. He is always happy to share stories about his culture.

In order to refresh, he travels often to his home state of Cochin, where he has interests in spice and tea farms. There are always a few new dishes he brings back that he is anxious to share with his patrons, currently including Poricha Meen, a typical south Indian dish of stir-cooked salmon marinated with tumeric, paprika, salt and pepper; Malabari Machi Biriyani, mahi mahi cooked with aromatic basmati rice, spices, fruits and nuts, blended with herbs and fragrant saffron; Khumb Makkai Mutter Palak, a vegetarian blend of mushroom, baby corn and green peas with spinach; and Shabnam Curry, a combo of cottage cheese, mushrooms and green peas in a delicate tomato flavored gravy. For dessert, try the new Soan Papadi, a traditional flakey sweet dish of almonds, saffron and pistachios. You will likely not find these specialties anywhere else in the area. The Masala Chai, lightly spiced Indian tea with hints of ginger, cardamom and clove, is quite soothing and refreshing this time of the year. Open seven days.
Bengal Tiger
144 E. Post Road, White Plains, 948-5191
bengaltiger1.com

LA PICCOLA CASA IN NEW QUARTERS

Proprietor andself-taught chef Walter Ricci is originally from Peru and had an Italian grandfather. Through the years he worked many popular kitchens in greater Westchester including the former Umberto’s in Rye and Giorgio’s in Port Chester, which he ran for 10 years.

In May he moved his cozy 14-year-old La Piccola Casa from the old Le Shack location along Rt.1 in Mamaroneck to handsomely refurbished quarters in the landmark DeLancey House where author James Fenimore Cooper lived for a time across from scenic Harbor Island Park along Boston Post Road. La Piccola Casa is friendly and cozy with a delightful view of Orienta Harbor from the bar/lounge room. It's a good spot for networking and taking in the annual July 4th fireworks at Harbor Island Park.

Ricci has premiered a new updated, value-conscious menu featuring many of his well known specialties. He does his own shopping daily. Great starters include: Clams Oreganata; fresh seafood salad with shrimp and calamari marinated with lemon, onions, olive oil served with roasted peppers;  a good arugula and endive salad; and fried calamari with dipping sauce.

Hearty pasta dishes prepared with special house made sauces include: Angel Hair La Piccola Casa, a light Bolognese with cream, tomatoes, prosciutto, beef and peas; Linguini Pescatore, full of mussels, clams, fish, shrimp and calamari in tomato sauce; Ravioli Filetto di Pomodori filled with spinach, veal and cheese, with fresh tomato-basil sauce; Farfalla with Meat Sauce; and Angel Hair with Red or White Clam Sauce. The La Piccola Casa pink sauce is so popular it is available for take home.

Beautifully prepared main courses include: Snapper Possilipo, sautéed with white wine, onions, garlic, marinara sauce garnished with shrimp and clams; Veal Chop Milanese, pounded thin breaded and pan-fried with olive oil topped with fresh chopped tomatoes and arugula salad; Pollo Scarpariello, chunks of chicken, white and dark meat, sautéed with garlic, onions, mushrooms and white wine; Shrimp or Chicken Francese style; and Veal Marsala, scallopini of veal sautéed with marsala wine and porcini mushrooms. There’s a hefty Broiled Veal Chop and Sirloin Steak Pizzaiola on the menu too, along with such favorites as Chicken or Veal Parmigiano.

Special Hint: Ricci’s’s soft shell crabs are the best I have encountered in Westchester so far. They are a must when sauteed, plump, meaty and juicy.

La Piccola Casa is located at 410 W. Boston Post Road, Mamaroneck. The restaurant is open 7 days a week for lunch and dinner. Lunch main courses $9.95 to $13.95. Dinner main courses $16.95 to $31.95. Bar/lounge with TV, ok for dining. Outdoor deck. Major credit cards. Casual dress. Free street parking. Reservations accepted. Call 777-3766.

 

O’CONNOR’S PUBLIC HOUSE OPENS